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Feature: The best 26 Audemars Piguet watches

By Craig Hawes, Heidi Merrony

It goes without saying that any “Best of” Audemars Piguet list will be dominated by variations of its hugely popular Royal Oak series. After all, the brand has equipped its seminal flagship model with everything from minute repeaters to perpetual calendars, and made it in everything from platinum to titanium—with spectacular results.

You’ll find some of the finest Royal Oaks ever made below, as well as a handful of vintage and contemporary models from the brand’s other collections that we think warrant a place in the pantheon of exceptional Audemars Piguet watches.

The first Royal Oak Concept CW1

Alacrite 602 is not the name of an avant-garde techno-punk band but a super-alloy used in the aerospace and medical industries. It’s also what the case of the first ever Royal Oak Concept watch is made from. This new line was launched in 2002 to commemorate the thirtieth anniversary of the Royal Oak, and AP now releases one of these mind-blowing Concept models every few years, making them in small numbers. The inaugural model featured a dynamographe at 12 o’clock—indicating the amount of torque supplied by the mainspring—plus an unusual linear power reserve display.

Royal Oak Offshore End of Days, reference 25770SN

At the end of the last millennium, watches suddenly got noticeably bigger, a trend helped by two of the planet’s biggest movie stars sporting over-sized watches. Sylvester Stallone famously favoured Panerai while Arnold Schwarzenegger aligned with Audemars Piguet, collaborating with the brand on a watch that he wore in the 1999 film End of Days. This was a black PVD-coated stainless-steel Royal Oak Offshore chronograph, which brought the brand to the attention of the wider world and ushered in a spate of A-List collaborations. Only 500 pieces were made.

Jules Audemars Equation du Temps, reference 25934OR

The Royal Oak is undoubtedly what keeps the bean counters at Audemars Piguet happy. But it’s masterpieces like this that ensures the brand’s most gifted watchmakers are pushed to their technical limits. Besides a perpetual calendar, moonphase and the times of the sunset and sunrise, this model in rose gold boasts an equation of time feature for the Argentinian capital, Buenos Aires. Not a complication you see everyday, equation of time indicates the difference between the regular clock time (mean solar time) and the time defined by the position of the sun (true solar time). This difference can be up to sixteen minutes, depending on the time of day.

Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon GMT, reference 26580I0

Released in 2014, this was the brand’s third Concept model, immediately earning itself the “Stormtrooper” nickname thanks to its chiefly white colourway and sci-fi looks. In watchmaking it’s rare to find a GMT complication and a tourbillon together, but that’s not the only remarkable thing about this striking chunk of ceramic and titanium. It also boasts an enormous 237-hour power reserve, meaning that, fully wound, you can leave it behind on a nine-day holiday and come home to find it still ticking away.

First self-winding Tourbillon, reference 25643BA

Not only was this watch the world’s first automatic tourbillon, it also held for many years the title of the thinnest automatic tourbillon, which was housed in a titanium cage, visible at 11 o‘clock on the sun-ray dial. The calibre 2870 movement used the watch’s caseback as its mainplate, helping to keep it thin, while having the crown integrated into its caseback—rather than on the side—added to its sleek aesthetic. Launched in 1986, it was designed by the trail-blazing female watch designer Jacqueline Dimier, who also worked on several other AP models.

The first-generation Royal Oak “Jumbo”, reference 5402

This is where it all began, the original Royal Oak as designed by Gerald Genta in 1970 and released two years later in 1972. This model alone kickstarted the luxury steel sports watch genre and set the blueprint that inspired countless watchmakers to create their own luxury steel sports model. The reference 5402 is also known as the “Royal Oak Jumbo”, although, ironically, at 39mm it tends to be smaller than later models. This first-generation reference is incredibly rare, making it one of the most sought-after Royal Oak models around.

First Royal Oak Offshore Diver Chronograph, reference 26703ST.OO.A027CA.01

In 2010, Audemars Piguet took the Royal Oak Offshore under water with the first divers’ version. It was well-received but it lacked the chronograph function that was pretty much one of the things that defined the model. This was fixed in 2016 with the release of this steel Offshore Diver Chronograph. It only timed up to 30 minutes, unlike the regular Offshore Chronograph with three subdials, which timed up to 12 hours, but it was more than enough for scuba-diving. As well as this blue version, it came in vibrant orange, green and yellow colourways, and offered a water resistance of 300 metres.

Edward Piguet, Ref.25947OR

Named after co-founder Edward-Auguste Piguet, this isn’t the kind of watch that leaps to mind when you think of Audemars Piguet. But if the luxury sports watch revolution had never happened, this is likely the type of thing we’d associate the brand with. Only at the upper echelons of the industry do you find skeletonised tourbillons in pink gold with finely engraved movements. Rectangular case shapes are also something of a rarity with AP, so this was an eye--opener when it debuted around 2008.

Royal Oak Camouflage, reference 15514BC.YY.1284BC.02

There were many haute joaillerie Royal Oaks to consider for this list, but we love the sheer audacity of a jewel-festooned camouflage watch—a complete contradiction in terms. The top side of this model, launched in 2024, is paved with no less than 861 baguette-cut sapphires, tsavorites and quartz, with even the crown clad in gems. This is the verdant green version, but if you’re not on an undercover jungle mission, you might want to opt for its glacier-blue sibling, set with topaz and sapphires.

Starwheel, Ref. 25720PT

An oddball time display with roots in the 17th century, the Starwheel system—with its dial comprising rotating satellites and a minutes scale in the form of an arc—was rediscovered and reintroduced by Audemars Piguet in 1992. Since then, it has featured in the Millenary and Code 11.59 collections, receiving a modern make-over. The king of the Starwheels, however, has to be this more retro-looking 36mm platinum version from 1997 thanks to its amazing pink copper guilloche dial and stepped bezel. There are few AP watches so distinctive in appearance.

Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon Extra Thin, reference 26660ST.OO.1356ST.01

Audemars Piguet celebrated the fiftieth anniversary of its Royal Oak in 2022 with several launches spread over the year—and why not? Not every watch can boast of being an unwavering icon for half a century. This was one of the most eye-catching releases, an extra-thin flying tourbillon in steel, with a regal-looking plum dial bearing the signature Tapisserie dial. It saw the case size shrink by 2mm from the previous 39mm model. The retail price when it was released was £165,400 dollars. Worth every cent.

Jules Audemars Extra-Thin, reference 15180OR.00.A002CR.01

The quintessential no-frills dress watch is, of course, Patek Philippe’s Calatrava, but between the early 1950s and the 1972 launch of the sporty Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet was renowned for its elegant time-only watches in precious metal. This beautifully understated pink gold model from 2014 is a throwback to those pre-Royal Oak days. It runs on the super-slim self-winding calibre 2120—based on a legendary Jaeger-LeCoultre movement also used by Patek and Vacheron Constantin—which helped to keep the case thickness well under 7mm.

The first Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, reference 25554BA

In the early 1980s, when the quartz revolution was in full stride, a handful of high-end Swiss brands showed their defiance by releasing mechanical watches that were more technically accomplished and luxurious than anything they’d ever released before. This was one example, the first-ever Royal Oak perpetual calendar with moonphase, which came in steel, platinum and yellow gold, like this model. At the time, it was one of the slimmest automatic perpetual calendar’s around, with only around 279 examples made across all metals.

Royal Oak Black Ceramic Perpetual Calendar

The late fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld famously wore a stainless-steel Royal Oak fully coated in black PVD, so he probably would have loved this all-black ceramic perpetual calendar version that debuted in 2017. Far lighter than its steel siblings and virtually scratchproof, it was a huge challenge for the brand to make this in ceramic, but the result was breathtaking. It also comes as a skeleton-dial version. Expect to pay well in excess of $200k for this watch today.

Starwheel Minute Repeater Ref 25881

We’ve already looked at one of Audemars Piguet’s finest Starwheel models, but this platinum model warrants a place in the spotlight owing to its rarity, complexity and off-brand cushion-shaped case. One of just ten pieces ever made, the reference 25881 features a minute repeater, a complication that arguably brings more joy to the wearer than any other watch function. Indeed, many of AP’s earliest watches were minute repeaters, enhancing the historical significance of this timepiece.

Platinum minute repeater, ref 5538

Despite being an early pioneer of minute repeaters and now boasting Switzerland’s most advanced sonnerie department—or “acoustic research lab”, as they like to call it—the chimes at AP were rather muted for most of the 20th century. The number of minute-repeaters made before the mechanical revival in the 1990s is thought to be less than ten. Which makes this vintage platinum model from 1960 extremely rare. Adding to its allure are the diamond hour markers and an incredible platinum bracelet made by Jean-Pierre Ecoffey, who also made many examples for Patek Philippe during the second half of the 20th century.

Minute repeater Ref. 25761 PT

Most of us can only dream of being able to ring up the CEO of a watch brand to request they customise our watch to our own specifications. This is pretty much what John Shaeffer, vice-chairman of the Allied Chemical and Dye Corporation, did in the late 1920s, asking AP to replace the hour markers of his cushion-shaped minute-repeater watch with the 12 letters of his name. In the 1990s the Shaeffer name was given to a collection of similar cushion-shaped watches, all masterpieces in their own way. This skeleton-dial version, also a minute repeater, is our pick of the bunch.

Vintage chronograph, no reference

Vintage Audemars Piguet chronographs are rare beasts indeed. Between the 1930s and early 1960s the brand made no more than a few hundred pieces before it began to focus on simpler round-cased dress watches. And then, of course, the Royal Oak came along in 1972—the dawn of a new era. Which makes models like this one from 1939 an extremely attractive proposition for vintage collectors, especially when they’re this well preserved. This gorgeous pink gold example comes with a perfectly aged dial signed by the Milan retailer, Gobbi.

Minute repeater with jump hour, ref. 26356PT.00.D028CR

Yes, another repeating watch, but we couldn’t overlook this skeletonized jump-hour platinum beauty from the Jules Audemars collection, home to some of APs more refined and traditional-looking watches. Besides the satisfying click of the gold-framed jump hour as it switches into place, and the chimes of the minute repeater, there’s also the manual-wind Calibre 2907 to appreciate from either side of the watch—a stunningly finished movement. This model from circa 2017 doesn’t get the fanfare of certain Royal Oaks, but it should.

Jules Audemars Minute Repeating Tourbillon, Reference 25982BC

This model makes the list primarily for being a fine example of Audemars Piguet’s haute joaillerie excellence, but the fact that it boasts a tourbillon and minute repeater also helps. The concentric dial is a visual feast of pavé-set diamonds and mother-of-pearl, with the tourbillon on show at 6 o’clock while the bezel is clad in even larger diamonds. The back of the tourbillon is displayed in a cut-away in the reverse of the case, which is white gold.

Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Companion”, reference 26656TI.GG.D019VE.01

Another addition to its exciting Concept collection, this time Audemars Piguet teamed up with New York-based artist KAWS to create this charming release in titanium. The peripheral time display offers an unobstructed view of KAWS’ miniature 3D model of the “Companion”, whose hands appear pressed against the crystal on the skeleton dial. The tourbillon is positioned in the centre of the Companion’s chest, revealing the watch’s beating heart, in a nod to KAWS’ dissected series. This is a limited edition of just 250 pieces, making it highly collectible.

The under-the-radar Genta watch, reference 5369

This fascinating time-only stainless-steel watch went under the hammer at a Phillips auction in 2016 for £8.8k—something of a bargain considering it was designed by a pre-Royal Oak Gerald Genta. Despite its relatively conventional tonneau-shaped case, you might say this watch foreshadowed, to use a literary term, the Royal Oak. The all-steel look and a clous de Paris dial give it a familiar sport-luxe veneer, while that exquisitely crafted mesh bracelet adds finesse. Beating inside is a manual-wind Calibre 2002, a rare transitional movement that was only used to power 200 watches—actual watches, not series.

Royal Oak Concept Black Panther, reference 26620IO.OO.D077CA.01

A collaboration with superhero franchise, Marvel, might seem unusual for a luxury watchmaker, but AP produced something that excited Marvel fanatics and watch enthusiasts alike. This titanium Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon is inspired by the “Black Panther universe” with a dial that boasts a striking hand-painted 3D Black Panther character crouching above a tourbillon at 6 o’clock. The purple inner bezel and matching rubber strap mimic the hero’s colours. This is a limited edition of 250 pieces and it has gone on to inspire Audemars Piguet to create similar Concept watches like the Spider-Man model.

Royal Oak Tantalum & rose gold, reference 14470TR.O.0902TR.01

This watch is special thanks to its use of tantalum—a very unusual metal that, due to its hardness and high melting point, is rarely used in watchmaking. It’s said that Audemars Piguet produced its first tantalum watch at the request of King Juan Carlos of Spain, who wanted a Royal Oak made from a stealthy, less shiny material for hunting. Paired with the warm 18k rose gold, this model strikes a perfect balance from both ends of the spectrum. This elegant timepiece is powered by the miniature self-winding calibre 2150 which was introduced in the mid-1980s.

Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon with black onyx dial, reference 26396NB.OO.D002KB.01

Audemars Piguet has described its Code 11.59 line as “classic by nature, unconventional by design” and looking at the watches, we’d say this is a pretty accurate description. We’re a fan of this model thanks to its stunning black onyx dial with rose-gold accents and the tourbillon revealed at 6 o’clock. The two-tone 18k white-gold case boasts a strip of black ceramic, too, a subtle touch that further elevates the timepiece. Interestingly, the Code 11.59 collection received an underwhelming response when it was released in 2019, but this model is certainly worthy of a spot in this list.

Millenary 4101 Pink Gold, reference 15350OR.OO.D093CR.01

The Millenary collection is where Audemars Piguet unleashes its creativity, blending high jewellery and fine watchmaking to produce some of its most impressive models. The reference 4101 is a fine example of this, with its signature oval-shaped case in pink gold and a skeleton dial with an off-centre minute and hour disk and a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. It’s powered by the similarly oval-shaped self-winding calibre 4101—the balance wheel of which is visible on the dial, not the caseback. Although the Millenary isn’t as recognised as the classic Royal Oak, it’s home to a range of elegant yet masculine models that showcase the technical prowess and creativity AP has in its locker.

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